Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the tiny, oh so beautiful Rush Brothers vineyard in Malmsbury.
3 x 2018 Brothers Malmsbury Chardonnay
3 x 2019 100% Malmsbury Pinot Noir
Honey, meyer lemon, daisies, lucerne and something I want to call crushed quartz aromatically.
I love the concentration of the palate - I put this down to older vines, dry grown on old roots.
There is a density to the wine, within which you can taste these salty, mineralic, slightly rich soils. Pithy, coiled citrus flavours layer pear and riper stone fruit - white and yellow flesh peach with mint on top. Some fine and integrated tannin framed the wine and a mineral push gives length. It's not especially acidic, until late when a rindy kick gives length and balance.
When I was a kid I would knock around with a couple of older boys - Lachy and Rhys Ford. I was an obedient pain in their arse. They were from a local family who farmed some sheep, trained trots and ran the local dairy - delivering milk to supermarkets and shops. They were then and still are some of the better sports blokes in Castlemaine - I was not.
Anyway - this wine smells just like the sheet of ply their Grandma would squash the blackberry bush with. We’d walk up it and under our weight it would squash the canes of the bush, allowing us to get to the ripest fruit. Grandma would make jam from the massive hauls we'd pull in after driving around the countryside looking for bushes.
Aromatics are full of fruit, dried spice and fresh green lift.
Abundant dark blackberry and raspberry fruit on the palate wrapped in a little fresh phenolic lick some sweet oak. The wine is satisfying in its light weight and dark fruit with a salty, salivating finish. Persistent structure. Lovely match for richer dishes and will handle some spice.